Replacing the Flukso v2 terminal block

One of the rising-clamp portions on the terminal block on my v2 has failed after a move, it's a bit hard to see exactly what's gone wrong but you can move the screw all the way in and out without the clamp portion becoming visible and it's not holding the wire in place. Is it a pluggable block or will I need to disassemble and de-solder the whole thing to replace it?

mr_thingy's picture

Answering my own question in case anyone else runs into this, some exploratory surgery has revealed it's a pluggable (phew, thanks @gebhardm!). However... these look a bit different to the standard green ones, are they interchangeable with those? Is there a specific part or type number that I should be looking for?

mr_thingy's picture

Narrowing it down a bit, it looks like a 3.81mm pitch one, so e.g. this one from Element14, is that the right one?

gebhardm's picture

Are you really sure the clamping part is lost? These screw terminals tend to be rather nasty little bastards, to express it politically incorrect. When you screw in or out the screw, do you experience some kind of resistance? What you will see is a sliding part in silver. I had the issue of not holding a wire as the clamping part was all screwed in. The sliding part in my humble opinion can only be lost, if a hole is broken or bended so strongly that it can fall out, including the screw itself - and from the construction I rather doubt that. Use "patience and spit" as a German proverb says before ordering a replacement.

mr_thingy's picture

Yeah, already tried all of that, picked at it under a magnifying glass with a dentist's pick but there's no sign of the clamp part. It may be embedded in the base or the top, what was happening was the screw was being pulled all the way down into the bottom of the shaft it sits in and after a lot of fiddling it's now stuck there. Also due to the tiny size of the screw there's a limit to how much torque can be applied with a jeweller's screwdrive. So if it wasn't broken before it is now :-).

Do you have a part number for it? It could also be 3.5mm pitch but it's hard to measure the exact one with only 0.3mm difference, so I'm not sure if I need a 3.5 or 3.81, half the time I'm measuring 3.5, the other half 3.81.

gebhardm's picture

Just opened my FLM3. The clamp socket type reads KF2EDG-Y3.50. So check before ordering. The type is visible of the clamp socket on one of the edges.

gebhardm's picture

To open the FLM, remove the rubber feet and just screw out the four screws.

mr_thingy's picture

Oh, I thought you'd just look it up in the parts list :-). Thanks for that, so it's 3.5mm, full type KF2EDG-Y3.50-12P, which should be the same as this Camden Boss one.

mr_thingy's picture

And for colour matching purposes, this Metz Connect one seems to be identical from what I can see from the CAD drawings of the two.

mr_thingy's picture

Oh, I thought it was a custom design you'd done (I haven't followed the details too closely apart from the general announcements).

I've kludged around the problem by putting a blob of solder on the end of the wire and filing it into a square shape so I can jam it into the connector, but after having to disconnect and reconnect sensors to figure out what was what (some of the wiring had changed) I've come to the conclusion that these rising-clamp connectors have been designed by Beelzebub and all his little wizards to torment the unwary. Metz Connect have spring clamp terminal blocks that can't be worse than, and hopefully better than, the rising-clamp ones so I'll get one of those instead, they're about the same price...

Fluc's picture

For the correct connector pitch distance, measure the distance of 11 pins ans divide by 10.